Madeira, Portugal: Europe's Hawaii
- Mar 8, 2024
- 22 min read
Updated: Mar 15, 2024
If you're anything like me, you are reading blog posts prior to your visit to make sure that you are making the most of your time on the island. In our week there, we made sure to prioritize the best of the best from everything we read. To our surprise, most advice was absolutely misleading and we were not at all prepared for many situations. There are tons of blogs that tell you about every hike, every waterfall, and the best places to watch the sunrise. Go read those. But this blog will strictly be advice on a few of those activities on there and what we found was actually worth it.
Let's start with information on the basics that will prepare you ahead of time for your travels.
Weather
The weather in Madeira is, honestly, unpredictable. Look at the forecast as you please, but usually it wasn't entirely accurate. We found that the higher you go, it just seems to always be slightly raining. It could have drizzled for 30 minutes or just a random 2 minute downpour, but every time we went higher in elevation, we were hit with some sort of precipitation. The wind can pick up pretty heavily, as well. No day was an ugly day, though.
What I recommend taking from this: pack a light raincoat/windbreaker (Here is the one we got and it has been great, especially for the price). Light enough that you will be able to stick it in a book bag or not be annoyed to be carrying it around. Also, being that most of the scenery is a lush green, if you want to stand out in your photos, I recommend a brighter color to make yourself pop.
Transportation
If you don't plan to rent a car and drive yourself around Madeira, honestly don't even go (just my harshly honest opinion). Depending on where you stay on the island, most things are at least 30 minutes away. The island has built a ton of tunnels rather than having to drive windy roads as frequently, which is appreciated. They love a roundabout, too. Driving there is easy and nothing to stress over and I can't even imagine how complicated booking public and private transportation would make your trip. The cost of a rental car will, most likely, end up cheaper than paying for alternative transportation. Parking for most things is easy and largely available but the luxury of being on your own time is worth more than it all.
Keep in mind that a lot of times, even if you get an SUV, it will be a smaller one there. You don't really want a large SUV, anyway. So, pack accordingly. We had a group of 5 girls stuffed into one car so we had to pack light to make sure it would all fit. Bring an extra charger cord for your phone so you can leave one in for GPS/music. I also recommend a portable phone mount in the event your car was like ours and doesn't have an onboard screen.
Accommodations
It's pretty vital to your stay to choose lodging that is convenient to your itinerary. Besides that factor, we were also glad that we opted out of staying in the city. So, figure out the whole 'vibe' you're going for during your trip and choose accordingly. Booking a place is essentially choosing scenic views vs city life. But, it's also being strategically central to your stopping points. I'd put together your top 5 things to do and map those to places that you're considering staying and seeing what works best. For reference, we stayed in Estreito da Calheta and found we were pretty equal distance from everything that we wanted to do. We also had the best views from our Airbnb which we preferred after a long day rather than being in the city.
The downside of choosing an Airbnb over a hotel is losing out on amenities like breakfast. However, we found a hotel near us that allowed us to pay every morning to eat at their buffet. We only paid 15 Euro a person to have an all-you-can-eat breakfast and that was more than reasonable.
Okay, so maybe you've done some research and you're figuring out the best hikes and coolest places (if not, that's okay - this is a great place to start or end). There's a high chance that our 'top things to see and do' are somewhat similar to yours. I want to talk about those.
Activities and Places You Could Be Considering
Pico do Arieiro (specifically for sunrise)
Let me start with this: If you go on a morning with perfect weather conditions and somehow at least 20% less people than normal, you'll probably have a great time and the view will be magical. I can't confidently tell you the percentage of how many of those days exist. I can confidently tell you that we went on a day when those factors very much impacted our experience.
We did what every blog advises: visited on a week day, went at least 45 minutes prior to sun rise, proceeded to hike further than the more heavily congested viewpoint...all of the things. We even read that it can be chillier weather since you're so high and the sun isn't out yet (duh) so we packed an extra layer because, from what we read, it wasn't that much colder (we went during September and read blogs who also went during that time).
I appreciated the honesty of one blog, which I will reiterate here: there are a lot of public cameras that you can check online to see weather conditions prior to going. These update (I think) every 15 minutes. However, if you're headed there for sunrise, there is truly no point in checking the cameras as it is pitch black. This is the risk you take.
Getting there:
You drive up some windy roads to get to where you want to park, ideally. The parking lot is right in google maps and the GPS will take you where you need to go. You will probably be either ahead of or behind other cars as what you read is true...there are a ton of people who go here for sunrise. If you are lucky enough to get a parking spot, you will not have a far walk to where you need to go. We were there probably 45min-1hr before sunrise and not only was the parking lot full, people were parked like lunatics all up and down the mountain road. We also saw people hiking - no idea where they managed to park.
I'd be lying if I said we didn't also park like a lunatic eventually as we could not find a spot. Meanwhile, the time it took to find one is time lost getting to your view point. Therefore, the advice to get there about 45 minutes prior to sunrise is not entirely accurate. You would realistically need to be getting to the parking lot at least an hour and a half before, I'd guess.
But, once you park, it's pretty self explanatory where to go. There's a long trail of people you can just see and there's a long trail of...trail.
Expectations vs reality
I have seen some amazing photos and videos and I hope that experience for anyone. Unfortunately, with the power of AI/photoshop, I don't know how many of those I can trust. While I don't regret our visit to Pico do Aireiro, I simply wish we did not choose to go for sunrise. I would highly encourage consideration of visiting for sunset and choosing other sunrise spots, if you are all about that.
We never even made it to the final viewpoint because we were all so miserable. It was far colder than we could have ever expected, it started raining, and the wind was absolutely insane. Prior to visiting, we checked the weather forecast and thought to have chosen the best day for this. However, upon arriving the fog was far too thick to show hardly anything. If the fog wasn't present, we may have braved the weather to keep going.
The majority of people I saw were honestly unprepared as well. Groups were cowered behind large rocks to block the wind since it was blowing heavily from one direction. People had their jackets tied over their heads to block the rain. It was insane. The amount of people there in general was an absurd amount and I didn't even see it possible that you could get a picture at the viewpoint with no one in it.
There are spots along that walk that absolutely no one goes to. If you're not stuck on going to that final point, you can definitely make a different and great looking angle somewhere else. We found one of those side spots and that is as far as we made it since it had some larger rocks to help barricade the wind. As you can see from our photo, that was as much view as we got due to the fog.
So, if you can get one of those perfect condition days - hell yeah. I really do hope that for you, otherwise the drive, the parking, the walking...it's not worth it that early. But, on the chance you choose to try it and what sucked for us is also going to suck for you, here's what I'll tell you:
Bring a raincoat/windbreaker (as light or as heavy for the average temperature for when you're going)
Get there as early as you can handle to try and secure a parking spot.
Bring food (there are not a lot of decent restaurants nearby and the trip up/down is windy and long)
Bring a headlamp to be hands-free (good to have for any sunrise or sunset adventures).
If you're by Pico do Arieiro, check out: A Ponte Velha
It's a really awesome unnamed bridge. I have pinpointed the exact location for you here. *Note this is really just a cool picture opportunity. There's nothing else to it. It may not be as worth it if you don't have a drone. If you're considering a drone, I recommend what we have: the DJI Mini 3 Pro. It's worth the investment if you're a frequent traveler.
Fanal (foggy) Forest
If this place isn't high on your list yet, you should make it. Easy to get to, easy to walk around, and overall a really cool place. This is another one of those places in Madeira that you want to get the weather just right for. If there is a cloudier day showing in your trip's forecast, pick that day (the opposite weather you want for most other places). This isn't a place that you need to be at sunrise for. It's also not necessarily a place that you need to be at right after sunrise to avoid crowds. Don't get me wrong, there are definitely a lot of people also exploring the forest. But, it's so big and so foggy that you can't really see that far away from you.
I would highly suggest bringing a rain jacket with you. I also recommend choosing a brighter color like yellow or red, unlike us, so you can really stand out against the greenery and fog. It drizzles off and on quite often and we definitely got poured upon for a solid 10 minutes as well. Besides the rain, the humidity is serious and if you have hair that likes to react to that...a hood is good to have. Because of those factors, it's pretty muddy in a lot of places and I would definitely wear shoes that you don't care about getting a little dirty.
Quick photography tip: The fog can come and go, even during your short time there. If it was pretty foggy a few minutes prior but now you can see clearly all over, just wait. If you are in a good spot for a picture, let the fog return before snapping it.
A few things to note that I'd change in the future:
Not the best spot for a drone. It's essentially a cloud of fog. Great if that is what you're going for but not if you're trying to film you walking in it.
The fanal pond is gone. If you have seen it in pictures, don't spend time trying to find it now. It's drained/dried...whatever happened, it's no more.
This is the place for a bright color. I didn't have one but I wish I had a red or yellow raincoat looking back.
PR6 Levada das 25 Fontes (Hike)
This was one of the more popular hikes that I saw recommended by bloggers and I have to be honest, I definitely wouldn't label it a top 5. This hike has its charm and it's not one that I regret doing. But, looking back, I would choose a different hike over this one and this is why:
Getting there
You can put the trailhead into your GPS and it will take you right to the parking lot. It's a big fielded lot and extremely straightforward to find. You almost don't even realize you're starting the hike because for a good 30 minutes down, you're walking on a paved road. You'll probably move out of the way for the shuttle a few times.
You'll finally approach the end of the paved road and see a sign on your right instructing you to go down. Immediately, it's a daunting sight of so many downward stairs. I think we all prefer that over just a steep incline that you can slide down. But, still daunting. While going down these stairs, you're fully surrounded by greenery. I don't want to say that it's not beautiful - it is. But, the view is somewhat repetitive for the entirety of the hike.
Eventually, you get to the waterfall. I guess because we had already seen a few, maybe this one wasn't as cool to us. But, I suppose when you do all of that work to get to something, you want to be blown away. Truth be told, we were not. I preferred the one at the Black Sand Beach.
Expectations vs Reality
I love to hike and I love getting the exercise, but that's not the only reason why I do it. I do it for the views, the adrenaline...but, mainly the views.
The waterfall was an upset for me. And your experience could be different if you go really early in the morning, but it was packed with a crowd when we got there. Which, we did go in the morning (around 8 am to be exact). It was much smaller than I had anticipated and with the large mass of people, I wasn't about to swim by myself.
With other hikes being difficult but giving you a better end point, I recommend saving your energy and checking out some of the waterfalls that you don't have to work as hard to get to.
Ilheus da Ribeira da Janela
Ah, another sunrise spot. But good news - this one is absolutely worth it. To get to experience multiple colors of sunrise in one trip, you can watch that happen here. When we arrived to watch, there was already a girl lying on the rocks with her book. That was the only other person out there and although that is not my vibe, I loved that it was hers. I've always wanted to be a 'reader' but I can't make it happen.
Quick photography tip: If you have a drone, this is a pristine spot to bring it to. If you are using your phone, put it on 'raw' format while here for the best color grading abilities.
Getting there
The drive there is a bit windy, but it's straightforward just like the rest of them. The gps location will bring you right to a free parking lot. Once you park, you have just a couple of minutes of walking to be right where you want to be. You'll walk along some pretty large black stones to probably get where you want to be, so be careful.
You'll want to arrive with about 30 minutes to spare before the sun starts to rise. You don't want to get there right on time and miss the faint orange glow right before it starts. It's not dark and it's not light, but it's just glowing.
This is not a spot to hang around for a ton of time, in all honesty. That is unless you bring a blanket and make it a whole thing. What's even better about this place is how close it is to a few other awesome places to check out. I recommend this being the first stop of the day, followed by the Black Sand Beach and Porto Moniz natural swimming pools.
Vereda do Pesqueiro (Hike)
While browsing the highly recommended coastline hikes, this was one we stumbled across that seemed to promise incredible views and be slightly moderate in difficulty. Not only did we appreciate the coastline backdrop, but the cacti were a nice touch. Of course, we also wanted to get down to this private beach.
If this is on your list, I'm certainly not saying to take it off. But, I want to make sure I am setting your expectations accurately.
What to know
I am coming to you as a semi-experienced hiker. I thrive on a difficult hike that gets my adrenaline running. Meanwhile, I am also not experienced enough to have full on hiking gear (I did wear great hiking boots that I highly recommend) and have the 'premium' version of All Trails.
I would classify this hike as extremely difficult, but not impossible (even if you're not an avid hiker). This can be a loop trail, which no one talks about the worst part about it being one. If you're doing the loop, you'll want to choose which side you start strategically.
If you are standing at Mirodouro Fio and staring at the water, there is a trail path to your west and east. The trail along your east side is extremely steep and narrow, but quicker. Your west side path is made more of switch backs, so it's less steep, but more of a long and steady decline. We went down the east side, as we felt that would be easier to go down rather than taking large, steep steps later when we had less energy.
If you don't want to do the loop, go down the west side path. This is the side that the 'private beach' is on and if that is the main reason you're doing the hike, that gets you there fastest. I felt, however, the east side path gave far better views and that's where all of the cacti were.
No one talks about the size of the rocks on the beach. They're huge and slippery and not sturdy. The walk along those was one of the hardest parts of the hike, by far. It felt like we were going to break an ankle with every step we took. Our moments along those rocks were when we realized this hike was a lot more difficult than we thought it was.
Be prepared
Going into this hike thinking it was only moderately difficult and ranged from 2-3 hours for completion, we weren't prepared for the reality. During this hike, you are in the direct sun light the entire time. While I wish I preserved my water better, I drank my two bottles within the first 30 minutes of the hike. Little did we know, the hike took us almost 6 hours.
This direct heat of the sun can cause you to get dehydrated quickly. Add that with elevation changes and just overall exertion from the hike itself, and your body will lose fuel fast. I cannot stress enough that you need to bring a lot of water and some snacks that can give you energy.
You do not want to be on any of this hike when the sun goes down. I don't recommend being on any of these trails prior to sunrise or after sunset. The paths are narrow and because this region is prone to landslides, sometimes they are more narrow in areas that you don't expect. It was an unsettling feeling as we had only just begun our ascent up from the beach when the sun started to lower.
I highly suggest checking the tide/weather if you are looking to get in the water. We thought by choosing a windy day for the hike that we were being smart because it wouldn't be as hot. Wrong. It was extremely hot. That also meant the waves were huge and getting in the water was a scarier venture than we wanted to choose to do.
You need to be wearing the proper gear for this hike. Shoes with traction, ventilating articles of clothing, and I recommend sunscreen.
Overall Recommendation
I did this hike with four friends and I can tell you that I was only 1 of 2 who enjoyed this hike. And even that is a stretch. I had moments of serious frustration and exhaustion but the feeling of overcoming it was very worth it. I think this hike provided us with some of the best views we saw in Madeira. I also think this would be a lot of fun to people who find enjoyment in riskier hikes.
Short answer: I definitely recommend this so long as you are prepared.
Seixal Beach (Black Sand Beach)
For me to appreciate this beach, we actually had to go back a second time. Why? Because black sand doesn't necessarily always look 'black'. The first time we went was following breakfast at a nearby restaurant, so we got to the beach around 11/1130 AM. By this time, there were already a good amount of people hanging out on the beach and the tide was extremely low so the sand was dry. Don't get me wrong, it was still really cool but when we got home later and checked pictures tagged at that location from the same day, it looked way cooler when the tide was high and earlier in the morning.
When the sand is more damp or wet, whether that be from the morning dew or the tide coming in is when you're going to get the best black color. After realizing this, we went back to the beach a few days later but earlier this time (around 8am). I can bet the sunrise from this beach is beautiful, but you don't have to get there that early to have a pretty quiet experience.
Going earlier in the morning not only gets you a richer contrast along the beach but it also eliminates the crowd of people. The people that are there during the day are legitimately just spending their day there. They aren't there for pictures. So, they aren't moving. And a lot of them are locals so they don't give a sh*t about walking into your frame when you're taking one.
While this is a great picture-worthy spot, it's also a great place to relax for the day. With close vicinity to the natural swimming pools, the combination can make for a chill day, especially if you're spending other days hiking. Laying out at either of these places feels a lot better on your body than choosing some other black stone beaches. But just like we learned there is a definite time you need to get to Seixal, there are some important things to know about the natural pools.
Porto Moniz Natural Swimming Pools
I read about going here on multiple blogs and sites which highly recommended it. I saw the same advice, too - it's a popular spot for locals, so get there early and that it cost a few euros to enter. Both are true. I also saw these amazing aerial shots that we were wanting to get for ourselves, especially being we have a drone. Short tip: those shots are not actually taken at the Porto Moniz swimming pools (nor was the above picture).
Because I love to be as prepared as possible, I was already on google/maps trying to pinpoint exactly where those pictures were taken. If you search these pools, the main site is the actual city's government site, so it's pretty trustworthy information. Check it out and you'll see how they have built this public center to be a more safe environment for people to go to. All of the pools not necessarily directly in the ocean were still ideal and a place we wanted to spend a day. I figured so long as the water wasn't too rough, you could climb over their sidewalk/railing and go into the more 'natural' ones. That's not the case.
With that said - there are two expectations you could be making about these pools. You do want to go to the ones that cost money to enter and it's a whole public hang out situation (food, drinks, chairs, umbrellas, etc). OR, you want to go to the actual natural pools that are not well known and far less crowded. They are free because it's not an attraction but there are also no amenities.
*Here's the reality of Porto Moniz:
But, I'll make this really simple for you before even going into further crazy detail:
You want a cool aerial photo? Go to the free pools.
You want a cool place to hang out for the day? Go to the paid pools.
(It's a little more complicated than that, but that's the simplest form)
Getting there
The paid pools are located here. It's easy to get there and there is a mass amount of parking available right by it. These pools are located within the city of Porto Moniz which has a ton of little shops and restaurants. There are paid parking lots and also free parking spots that line the road. If you can't find this place, we have bigger concerns, because there are signs with arrows just about everywhere you look.
I read a few blogs about the cost to enter, but it was more expensive than what I read. Still...quite cheap. We paid $3 Euro per person and we also decided to purchase an umbrella rental for $5 Euro. We never actually used the umbrella because we set our spot in a different place than where we would have needed to sit to use that. So pro tip: just go back and buy a chair or umbrella if you learn you need one. People lay down just about anywhere. So, don't be shy. Put your towel down wherever you want to be.
Porto Moniz or Another?
So, if you think there's a chance that you'd climb over some large rocks to get into those 'pools' that aren't included in the attraction itself, you probably won't be doing it. The water is extremely rough in those areas because that is essentially where the waves meet wall. We watched a wave crash over the rocks and actually knock an entire group of people over who were walking inside the park. We also decided to let a wave crash into us after that if that tells you anything about who we are.
While all of the bloggers who have a picture of themselves in what looks like that area always discuss Porto Moniz in their description...that isn't where they took that picture. We are the psychos who walked that entire place multiple times trying to figure out how it could have been taken there and came to the definite conclusion it was not possible. We want to make sure that is clarified for you.
This park was definitely worth visiting and spending a few hours, though. There is a diving board off to the right side where you can jump into the main water. It's higher than it looks but it's so much fun. That is when I learned how rough the water was as it pushed me about two steps up when trying to exit out of the water. My recommendation would be: if you want a cool aerial picture, visit these parks after you take an earlier morning visit to the other nearby ones.
Getting to the Natural Pools
After hours of searching online - reading blogs, checking satellite views of the area, checking local websites...we were coming to a dead end about how to find the other pools. Weirdly, we had breakfast at a place near them that morning (unknowingly) and recalled looking over the hand railing saying "that water looks like glass down there" because it was so calm. Because we were returning to that breakfast place the next day, we told ourselves we would take a closer look at them.
I'll take this time to highly recommend eating breakfast where we did - Hotel Aqua Natura Bay. It is a hotel, technically, but they are open to the public for their breakfast buffet. It cost only $15 Euro per person and it's all you can eat with so many amazing options (great gluten free options too). But, let's say you don't eat here. This is still where I recommend to put in your gps as a starting point to walk down to the pools. Across the street from the restaurant, as you walk towards your right, you'll stumble upon a stair case/entrance. No abundance of signs like the other pools. But, once you follow the walkway down you are met with the sight of these beautifully secluded naturally formed pools.
When we walked down there, there were only two other people - two older women who were definitely locals. We loved that for them. We all took turns getting some cool videos and pictures on the drone, did a few dives, and by the time we were done, it was getting a bit busier. Everyone who was showing up seemed to be local and coming here specifically for the seclusion.
Fortunately, I have dropped a pin in google maps to basically tell you exactly where to go. Enjoy.
PR8 Vereda da Ponta de Sao Lourenco
This trail was easily one of the best hikes and some of the best views of our trip. While I read that this was one of the most popular hikes on the island, I was surprised to see that it wasn't as crowded as I expected. This path is nicknamed the 'Dragon's Tail' because you will be following the path of the furthest eastern coast of the island. If you were do complete the entire hike, expect to be walking for a few hours and to do a total distance of around 7km. We did not go the entire route, but instead probably went about halfway before turning around. The views are stunning the entire way so we felt accomplished with what we saw but I can imagine there are some other great picturesque areas towards the end.
Getting There
Traveling to and arriving at the parking location is pretty straight forward. There is a ton of free parking, but it can fill up quickly, so if you see a spot...grab it. Putting the trail in your gps will take you directly to the parking area. Expect to drive around 30 minutes from Funchal. Finding where to start your hiking from the parking area is very easy...you simply cannot get lost.
On the way there and when leaving, you'll pass through Canical. We ended up stopping in to eat after and were impressed by this cute town, so we walked around a bit. If you have the time, explore the area and see for yourself.
What to Expect
This hike isn't like the rest of the places that I have discussed prior - I find there is not much to know and prepare for. This is what I would consider an 'easy' hike. While the path is mainly gravel, it's not particularly loose and the paths are well maintained. Therefore, although I will always recommend hiking boots on any hike, I won't say they are absolutely necessary on this one if you don't already have them. Any paths that are more narrow or steep are equipped with handrails. While I can't advise this as the smartest decision, we did venture over a few handrails to get some of our photos.
If you have the time and endurance, I do recommend completing the entire trail. Check out this guy's blog to see why.
This is a coastal hike, so expect sun and wind. There are a few spots where you can descend into the beach cove. When we went, there were a ton of sailboats and jetskis docked in that area playing music and it seemed like a great time. This is an absolute must if you have a drone - this is where we got some of our best footage.
Other Considerations
There are a few other stopping points that we made that aren't, in my opinion, worth a necessarily lengthy discussion. Sometimes, you just have to pick and choose what you can and are willing to make time for. Here are a few things that you may or may not consider worth some time.
Santana House
Maybe you've seen some cute photos in front of these little triangle houses. If you put Old Santana House into your gps, you'll be very surprised where you end up. It isn't what you see in blogger's photos...it is the actual home that inspired the others you see. Now, we were actually happier with our experience here than the tourist driven ones. If you show up here, you will find the owner of the home who is so kind and welcoming and lets you walk inside to see a piece of history. He even gave us a shot of a local homemade rum. To arrive to those houses where you see all of those instagram photos, you'll be going to Casas Tipicas de Santana. Here, we were utterly disappointed. These little houses are tiny and crowded with tourists. They lacked authenticity for obvious reasons and each of them are actually a souvenir shop. We did buy a cute gift for our families here, but certainly didn't find it worth it to take any insta-worthy shots.
Funchal
I saw several blogs writing about the 'must-do's' in Funchal. While we enjoyed our time exploring the city, I wouldn't say there is anything you must do to feel like you're getting the best experience. We found better luck by spontaneously exploring rather than hitting those spots that we saved. I won't go into great detail about every thing we were underwhelmed by, but rather just leave it at this: the most characteristic part of Funchal will be by the colorful art doors. Walk around, find some good food, and you'll have fun.
Closing Remarks
Overall, whether you are looking for adventure, relaxation, or both...Madeira is a great place to explore. With any sort of travel, I always recommend the following:
Make safety a priority. Being a tourist anywhere can be a risk, especially when you don't look like a local. Keep valuables close by and always practice situational awareness. Utilize safety specific items if there is concern.
Have your European essentials ready. If you aren't traveling from Europe already, there are a few items that can help prepare you.
Save every destination ahead of time. Use Google Maps and save everywhere you want to go, their parking lot, your accomodations, etc. Put it in a list and share it with everyone you're traveling with.
Expect unexpected weather. The forecast in Madeira, like any island, can drastically change within minutes. Even if you check ahead of time and see clear skies, I still recommend packing clothing items to prepare for every type of weather.
Need help planning your trip? Book a consult with us and we can give you a quote on a fully customized itinerary.
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